1973 Dodge Charger Build Thread

[ramthis9501]

Here we go, we finally have started back to work on our car. This is going to be a build thread where I will update it when we do something to the car. Its going to be a long process but so cool when its all said and done.

Info on car...
1973 Dodge Charger SE
318 (5.2) V8
All original

First update...
The car is torn down all the way except the few body pieces. Roof was rusted thanks to a cloth top, so we cut it out and replacing with a brand new sheet of 16 gauge metal. Tonight we cut the roof to where the new sheet would fit and then tacked it in a few spots to hold until we go back out there to finish the welds.

http://i887.photobucket.com/albums/ac78/ramthis9501/2012-01-24_19-27-59_563.jpg

http://i887.photobucket.com/albums/ac78/ramthis9501/2012-01-24_20-27-26_13.jpg

When we get it pulled out of the shop into the daylight, I'll get some good pictures of it.

Hope you all enjoy this build thread! It'll be worth it because this is gonna be one sexy beast:naughty:

[BMRbrnSNRbrd]

Awesome build.

[OklaHemi]

Since you're playing with metal.... WIDE BODY THAT BITCH

[DoubleTakeDodge]

that is gonna look sick!

[myoung84]

Looks like a fun build!

[ramthis9501]

Since you're playing with metal.... WIDE BODY THAT BITCH

Do you know how much time that would take? No thanks... Lol

[ramthis9501]

Ok so tonight we got part of the front tacked on and the rest clamped. Hoping the metal will relax some so it will bend easier tomorrow. Theres one spot that doesnt want to go down, so we're going to have to cut a relief into the metal so it will lay down then weld it all down. Its tacked all the way around so we'll finish it up tomorrow hopefully.

Here it is so far
http://i887.photobucket.com/albums/ac78/ramthis9501/0126121911.jpg

And the spot giving us trouble
http://i887.photobucket.com/albums/ac78/ramthis9501/0126121911a.jpg

More updates to come! :)

[ramthis9501]

The top is on! It is welded all the way around. Tomorrow or Monday we're going to grind it all down smooth. We got the spot down that was giving us trouble, but its still a little dented up, so its gonna be covered in bondo. We're going back with the original vinyl roof, so even though its ugly, it'll be covered up lol it feels good to accomplish something finally on this thing!

Pics
http://i887.photobucket.com/albums/ac78/ramthis9501/2012-01-28_21-12-55_375.jpg

http://i887.photobucket.com/albums/ac78/ramthis9501/2012-01-28_21-13-08_277.jpg

[Matt]

man i don't want to be a downer but i would do some more practicing on welding before i would weld a roof skin on that could potentially be a safety issue in a crash there is a ton of puddling with the weld where it didn't make good penetration btw if you don't want your body filler to crack work the metal with a body hammer and dolly rule of thumb you never want more than a 1/4 of filler or you're very likely to have cracking especially something that doesn't have a lot of support like a roof for instance theres quite a bit of flexing in most ... evercoat makes some of the best body fillers rage gold is the best if you can afford it .. if not z-grit isn't bad but cheap both are heads and tails better than bondo brand

[ramthis9501]

I know the welds are ugly but we're going to work with it some more and make sure its all welded tight. Like I said its all going to be grinded down smooth then we'll weld in any spots that we missed. I'll look into that body filler to. Thanks

[ramthis9501]

Been awhile since my dad got hurt but we're about to get back at it. But its even better... a really big motivator for us, we're going to get it tomorrow. Stay tuned... you all dont wanna miss this :D

[OklaHemi]

When welding on cars you should spot weld to reduce warping. You need to watch truckS, not the new gay guys but the old Stacy David stuff, he will learn ya. I saw a video from a teacher at wyotech where he spot welded two inch increments and once he was done he went back and filled in the spots randomly.

Hell, talk Clint into welding it for you and I'll bring him down there.

[BMRbrnSNRbrd]

When welding on cars you should spot weld to reduce warping. You need to watch truckS, not the new gay guys but the old Stacy David stuff, he will learn ya. I saw a video from a teacher at wyotech where he spot welded two inch increments and once he was done he went back and filled in the spots randomly.

Hell, talk Clint into welding it for you and I'll bring him down there.

EXACTLY! x 2

[LowRam]

X3^^ i had a body shop warp my eclipse trunk lid when shaving stock spoiler holes off so i finished it my self

[ramthis9501]

Well heres our motivator :D
http://i887.photobucket.com/albums/ac78/ramthis9501/Photos/2012-03-15_18-56-56_204.jpg

Its a 1973 Dodge Charger SE with the 318. We got this car mostly for parts, and there are pleanty of them! The motor is kinda trashed but we're going to piece everything out and use what we need then sell the rest. Hoping to get to work by the weekend!

And the reason why we arent building this car instead is because the floor pan is rusted out.

[Okiespaniels]

I'd rather weld a dozen floor pans in than one roof any day...Floor pans seldom warp and aren't noticable if they did.

[Matt]

I'd rather weld a dozen floor pans in than one roof any day...Floor pans seldom warp and aren't noticable if they did.

bingo

[LowRam]

id definatly rebuild that one in the pick floor pans, motor,head lights and paint then done! sounds much easier thn the roof and everything else your going thru..

[ramthis9501]

Well the other reason we can't is because there isn't any title for this car and we have the title for the other one.

[myoung84]

Swap the Vin plates. Problem solved. ;)

[MegaCabMan]

Or title 42...unless it's hot.

[LowRam]

id just VIN swap it.

[ramthis9501]

We have been considering it, but after looking at it all, it wouldnt be worth it. This car is so rusted it out its ridiculous. I dont see the point in doing that when we have the other car that barely has any rust on it. We'll just cut the roof off and transfer it to the car we're building if we have to.

Now a question... We have the original 318 that we were just gonna build up a little and use it. But we also have a 440 block that is ready to build... Would it be worth the extra money to build the 440 instead of the 318? If so, how much does a complete build kit run for the 440?

[Matt]

i think you might be barking up the wrong tree not sure how many people on here have built a 318 and a 440 or even driving both to give you a fair answer you need to talk to an engine builder and what needs replaced on both motors? are they both complete? how long have they sat and how much money are you wanting to throw at it bc thats the factor that your dad is going to have to decide

[ramthis9501]

318 is complete, 440 is just the block... And we're trying to keep costs down as much as possible. I just figured someone might know something on it or even know someone that knows alot about it.

[Matt]

not even a question then if your dad is trying to keep costs down .. you'll spend more just buying the parts to finish the 440 vs rebuilding the 318

[LowRam]

^^yes your much better off with the 318 if your trying to keep yuor cost down.

[MegaCabMan]

Just freshen up the 318...new rings, gaskets, valve stem seals, lap the valves, timing chain and oil pump. That will get the car on the road, but keep your eye out for something better.

I don't think I'd build the 440 block if I were you, I'd bet you'd have 5 grand in it before you got it between the frame rails...You need to find an engine with a complete rotating assembly.

The place where I am getting my Jeep engine built has an old school hemi on the floor. You might be able to pick it up for the shop bill. It would probably need to be de-tuned so it is streetable tho.

[myoung84]

De-tuned? Where's the fun in that?

[MegaCabMan]

I know, but I have a feeling that this engine is pure drag car. It looks like it has an offenhauser mechanical fuel ejection set-up (six 1 bbl carbs). Very cool, but not real friendly for the street. Those are either at idle or wide open...not much in between. It's probably also got 12:1 pistons and a monster cam.

[ramthis9501]

Thank you Randall, thats the info I was looking for. We'll prob just do the 318 so we can have somthing to cruise in. Maybe later on down the road we can build the 440 and put it in a drag car once we save up enough lol

[MegaCabMan]

No problem.

When you start talking about building an engine from just a block, you have to remember that you have to buy everything..and after looking over some of the prices...

$2000-3000 for a rotating assembly
$500-1500 for heads
$500-800 for valve train
$600 for intake and carb
$250 for headers
$500-600 Misc. (oil pump, pan, covers , gaskets, etc.)
that's over $4000 in parts alone, then you still have to pay a machine shop, that bill will likely be a couple more grand, so now you are at $6000. And we haven't even started talking about all of the pulleys, mounts and brackets that you will have to buy.

Instead of building your 440 block,sell it and get one of these...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-440-six-pack-complete-engine-and-transmission-Charger-Challenger-GTX-Hemi-?cmd=ViewItem&hash=item43ae16b414&item=290683532308&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0

[ramthis9501]

Wow didnt expect it to be that much lol do you know of any good places to get stuff for the 318? Maybe even put a bigger cam in it to...

[LowRam]

well colton you may not be the only one with a classic be for too long... im looking at possibly a 1959 bel air, or 1960 buick... hmm not sure if i want to pick one of em up or not ive got to look at there condition in person!

[ramthis9501]

Cool dude! Good luck, hope you get one of them!